Shoraian: A Hidden Tofu Kaiseki Restaurant on an Arashiyama Mountain Path
For our wedding anniversary, my wife and I visited Shoraian, a tofu kaiseki restaurant
tucked into the hills of Arashiyama. It sits upstream from the famous Togetsukyo Bridge, at
the end of a quiet mountain path.
Arashiyama has no shortage of restaurants, but this one is worth the extra steps. Here's
why I'd recommend it.
Getting There Is Half the Fun
The restaurant is hidden in the woods, and you have to keep an eye out to find it. I loved
that. A few minutes from the crowds around Togetsukyo, the path suddenly turns quiet
and green.
Don't worry about getting lost, though. Shoraian shows up on Google Maps, and it's about
a 15-minute walk from Randen Arashiyama Station.
On Fridays, weekends and holidays, the restaurant also opens for dinner. Walking the dark
mountain path at night must be quite an adventure. One honest warning: if you drink too
much, the way back can be genuinely dangerous. Watch your step.
Calligraphy on Every Wall
The rooms are decorated with calligraphy and ink paintings. I'm no expert, but even at a
glance I could tell they were something special.
According to the restaurant, every piece except one is the work of the proprietress, Fuyo
Kobayashi, a calligraphy artist. She also created the title calligraphy for Koto (2016), a film
based on Yasunari Kawabata's novel. The one exception is a framed piece by Prince
Fumimaro Konoe, whose villa this once was.
Some seasonal dishes are inspired by her artwork. Courses from "Shorai" upward also
come with a postcard of one of her pieces.
A Prime Minister's Former Villa
The building has history, too. Shoraian was once known as the villa of Prince Fumimaro
Konoe, who served three times as Prime Minister of Japan in the 1930s and early 1940s. It
is still used much as it was then, and it stands on a single large rock on the riverbank.
Inside, everything feels a little smaller than in a modern Japanese home, which I found
charming. Tree branches reach almost to the windows, and you can hear the river below.
From your seat, you can watch boats drifting down the Hozu River as you eat.
Gently Seasoned, Never Bland
The seasoning is gentle. Not "weak,
" but soft and soothing, the kind of flavor that makes
you relax. That's how it felt to me, at least.
Not every dish is like that, though. Some have bolder flavors, so the course has a nice
rhythm, and I never got bored.
The tofu comes from Morika, a long-established tofu maker in Saga. You get to enjoy it in
many forms, from simmered yudofu to deep-fried agedashi tofu.
Warm, Friendly Staff
The staff were all smiles, friendly and welcoming. They helped make our anniversary a
truly pleasant day.
A Note for Vegetarians
Shoraian offers a vegetarian course. However, as the restaurant states on its website, the
dishes are made with dashi (broth) from katsuobushi, or dried bonito fish. If you're a
vegetarian who eats fish, you should be fine. It is not suitable for vegans or strict
vegetarians.
The regular courses include shrimp and wagyu beef, so be sure to choose the vegetarian
course. If you have any dietary restrictions, it's best to mention them when you book.
Restaurant Information
Hours may change, so please check with the restaurant before you go.